Ashes of Roses by Bourjois c1909

Cendre des Roses, "Ashes of Roses" in English, was a toiletry line by Bourjois launched in France in 1909 and the USA by 1913, it was introduced to England in 1923 with the formation of Bourjois Ltd. For most people today, the name may seem strange. The Ashes of Roses name was based on a specific mauve fabric color called "Ashes of Roses" which was popular in the late 1800s and into the early 1900s. Other "Ashes of..." colors were also offered in the Victorian era.

 Ashes of Roses was created by Ernest Beaux.

Fragrance Composition:

So what did Ashes of Roses smell like? It was a floral blend of Marechal Niel rose, tea roses, Bulgarian red roses, and honeyed sweet briar.

• Top notes: tea rose
• Middle notes: Bulgarian red rose, Marechal Niel rose
• Base notes: sweet briar

Ashes of...:

The popularity of the Roses line paved the way for more "Ashes of..." lines. Each presentation used simple shapes, enhanced by coordinated paper graphics featuring a slender vase with a single flower. This design motif was typical of the Paul Iribe drawings from 1910. It is possible that these graphics may have been designed by Iribe, who worked for perfume companies such as Lubin, LT Piver, Bichara, Rosine, Lanvin and others.

Ashes of Carnations was created by perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine.

The Ashes of line included:

• Ashes of Roses c1909 
• Ashes of Violets c1913 
• Ashes of Mandarine Roses
• Ashes of Muguet c1913 
• Ashes of Jasmine c1913
• Ashes of Cyclamen c1913
• Ashes of Chypre c1913
• Ashes of Gardenia c1913
• Ashes of Sandal (or Sandalwood) c1913 
• Ashes of Wall Flower c1931
• Ashes of Lilies c1931
• Ashes of Carnations c1931
• Ashes of Lavender c1932
• Ashes of Lilac c1932
• Ashes of Heliotrope  

Despite the eleven different choices of flowers, the Ashes of Roses line was the best selling of them all. In 1921, Bourjois applied for a US trademark on the Ashes of Roses logo. IN THE TRADE MARK UPON A GOLDEN BACKGROUND THE WORDS "ASHES OF ROSES" AND A VASE APPEAR IN WHITE, SAID VASE HOLDING A RED ROSE WITH GREEN LEAVES.

In 1929, a new,modernized graphic motif was designed for the "Ashes of Roses" line, which depicted a different kind of vase or basket, which featured five full roses instead of a single bloom.

Rexall Pharmacy photo from Octavian Coifan. 

Window display of Ashes of Roses c1920s, photo from worthpoint

Ashes of Roses Domino set, photo by ebay seller murrykin

These perfume lines were so successful that the Bourjois shops had their interiors and furniture decorated using the same graphics.

A special advertising chair, a rare piece of furniture from one of Bourjois' salons, used in either the Paris or London boutique. Only two chairs are still known to exist. The front of the wooden chair features a central splat decorated with a hand painted Art Deco motif of a slender vase holding a single stylized rose bloom in polychrome enamel, the background of the design is gilded. At the base of the splat, the name Bourjois and the cities Paris & London are stenciled. The top rail of the chair has a small hand painted cartouche featuring the name "Ashes of Roses", a perfume. The back of the chair has a similar hand painted design, this time, the flower is of two stylized violet blossoms and the cartouche reads "Ashes of Violets", the name of another Bourjois perfume. The chair has an applied varnish and is fitted with a leather upholstered slip seat.

The Ashes of Roses/Violettes included the following products:

• Perfume in six sizes including miniature
• Toilet Water 
• Eau de Cologne in three sizes, and two decanter sizes 
• Toilet Soap, 3 bars in a box 
• Toilet Soap, 1 in a box 
• Bath Soap, 3 bars in a box 
• Bath Crystals in three sizes 
• Bath Tablets in two sizes 
• Bath Dusting Powder 
• Talcum Powder in two sizes 
• Sachet Powder in satin envelopes
• Baby Powder 
• Cold Cream
• Night cream 
• Vanishing Cream in two sizes 
• Face Powder in two sizes 
• Compact Powder in two sizes 
• Rouge
• Lipstick
• Depilatory 
• Cigarettes in two box sizes 
• Perfume Cachous 
• Smelling Salts
• Liquid Brilliantine for the hair in Ashes of Roses or Ashes of Violets 
• Solid Brilliantine
• Wave Setting Lotion
• Vanity Bag Compact Powder in gilt case with dainty puff and mirror, in two sizes 
• Coffret with perfume, eau de cologne, lipstick and face powder

Perfume:

Introduced in 1923,  the Ashes of Roses perfume (Parfum) was available in various bottles. The Perfume came in six different sizes. One bottle was a slim, square shape topped with a glass button shaped stopper covered  in gold enamel.

Perfume Ashes of Roses, of delicate and lasting fragrance.

• Purse size (Ref. No. 90M)
• 1 oz - Small size (Ref. No. 90) measures 2.75" inches high and 1.5" inches wide
• 2 oz? - Larger size (Ref. No. 91)

 

 

The perfume bottle stands 3" tall and the powder box measures 2 7/8" in diameter and 1 1/14" tall. Photo by ebay seller manysmiles.

The bottle below was the Deluxe version made by both Baccarat and St Louis Glassworks. This bottle was originally used for the Bourjois perfume Miss Kate and is the precursor to the famous Shalimar bottle used by Guerlain. The bottle stands about 4.5" tall including the urn shaped black glass stopper.

Eau de Cologne:

Introduced in 1923, the Eau de Cologne came in several sizes, small flasks, medium flasks, and large flask. It also came in two different economy sized decanters.

Eau de Toilette:

Introduced in 1923, Bourjois described their Toilet Water (Ref. No. 92) as having the" highest and most delicate quality.  Fragrant and stimulating." It is shown in the tall, slim bottle with colored glass button stopper below:

Rouge:

Introduced in 1923, what is commonly called blush or blusher today, Bourjois' rouge was originally housed in gold-decorated leatherette cases with rich ball-top puffs. 

• Rouge in shades Ashes of Roses (dark and rich), Mandarine (frankly orange, light and bright) 
• Rouge, pocket size with puff (Ref. No. 83) 
• Rouge, boudoir size with puff (Ref. No. 84) 
• Rouge, professional size - no puff (Ref. No. 85) 

Face Powder

Introduced in 1923, Bourjois said: their face powder was “A triumph of French art. Unrivalled for smoothness of texture and invisibility, delightfully perfumed. Like a bloom gathered from the rose.”  Their ads also claimed that it was "the result of years of research in one of the most modern perfumery laboratories in Paris." The face powder was ground "so fine as to be almost invisible."

Face Powder came in two sizes, also in compacts too. Shades: Naturelle, Rachel, Blanche, Rose, and Brunette. 

Lipstick:

Introduced in 1923, the lipsticks were contained inside of gilded metal cases with push up tubes. Bourjois said their lipstick “Adds that last alluring touch to beauty.” Lipstick in two colors - Ashes of Roses (dark) and Ashes of Rose Mandarine (light), in two sizes: 

• Purse size (Ref. No. 97)
• Larger size (Ref. No. 98)

Bath Crystals & Tablets:

Introduced in 1923, Bath Salt Tablets were available in two sizes, a small container of six or large container of twelve in Ashes of Roses or Ashes of Violets scent. Bath salt crystals were available in two sizes, large and small. Luxury bath crystals could be has in small or large fancy opal glass jars. All in Ashes of Roses, Ashes of Violets and Ashes of Carnations fragrances.

Talcum, Baby  Powder & Poudre de Toilette:

Introduced in 1923, Talcum powder came in two sizes. 

Cold Cream, Vanishing Cream & Night Cream:

Introduced in 1923, the Vanishing Cream was an all purpose cream that was supposed to fade dark spots, blemishes, remove blackheads and pimples, and help prevent sunburn.You were supposed to apply it before your face powder in the morning before going outside. Bourjois described it as “An exquisite cream of lasting freshness and delightful perfume—a perfect base for powder.”

Introduced in 1924, Bourjois described their cold cream as “The true skin food—it creates that bloom of health and a soft, rounded suppleness.”

Introduced in 1928, the Night Cream was to be applied before retiring for bed. Bourjois described it as “Softens and nourishes the skin and removes all impurities from the pores while you sleep.”

Ashes of Roses Depilatory:

With the fashions of the day revealing women's legs and bare arms, shaving was a must for those who did not want the old fashioned "au naturel" look. However, unlike today, women of the period did not have many options. Shaving the underarms and legs during the 1920s was not just seen as "risque" but also was actually very risky, as women had to use men's razors or the special lady razors that still looked like men's big clunky razors. To counteract this, many companies came out with cream based depilatories, and Bourjois was no exception, their version, introduced in 1925, was scented with their famous Ashes of Roses perfume. Bourjois said that it “Removes superfluous hair in a few minutes, quickly, safely and surely, leaving the skin smooth and soft and in no way irritated.”

Now women had a product to help not only remove hair but also leave the skin lightly perfumed.

Ashes of Rsoes Soap:

Introduced in 1923, it was a square shaped bar soap.

Ashes of Roses Brilliantine:

In 1927, Bourjois introduced two types of brilliantines: crystallized and liquid.

 

Ashes of Roses & Violets Cigarettes:

Introduced in 1927, these cigarettes were made by the Silver Perfumes Cigarette Company and "made by hand with the finest Virginia tobacco" and subtly scented with Ashes of Roses or Ashes of Violets fragrances. The feminine cigarettes came in boxes of 12 and 25, the cigarettes themselves were described by Bourjois as "dainty" and "gold-tipped."Each was emblazoned with the Ashes of Roses flower vase motif and gold tips.

Evening in Paris by Bourjois c1929

Evening in Paris by Bourjois: created by Ernest Beaux, assisted by Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine, was launched in 1928 in France under the name Soir de Paris and was an instant hit. The name evoked the reputation of gaiety, romance and love of the French capital. It was then named Evening in Paris and 1929 for sale in the United States.

Floral and aldehydic type. Spicy perfume. Carnation, jasmine, a touch of iris, Rose de Mai, vetiver, sandalwood. A floral note combined with a warm, heady carnation accord, set against a base of precious woods. With its floral yet deep character, it suits all types of women. Sophisticated, distinguished, a true evening perfume. Truly different and always “in.”

Fragrance Composition:

So what does the original smell like? It is classified as a sweet aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It starts off with a cool, green aldehydic floral top, followed by a sweet and spicy floral heart, layered over a warm powdery base. Floral and aldehydic type. Spicy perfume. Carnation, jasmine, a touch of iris, Rose de Mai, vetiver, sandalwood. A floral note combined with a warm, heady carnation accord, set against a base of precious woods. With its floral yet deep character, it suits all types of women. Sophisticated, distinguished, a true evening perfume. Truly different and always “in.”

• Top notes: aldehydes, orange blossom, violet, bergamot, estragon, cyclamen
• Heart notes: ylang ylang, linden blossom, clover, lilac, rose de mai, jasmine, lily of the valley, orris, carnation, wallflower
• Base notes: vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, myrrh, vetiver, styrax, ambergris, incense, musk, benzoin, heliotrope

Marie-Claire, 1937:

"Soir de Paris by Bourjois: dry, penetrating. Dominant note: jasmine, oak moss. Excellent on the skin. For blondes and chestnuts. In the environment where she evolves, she is 'the beautiful Madame Une Telle'."

Bottles:

Originally presented in a midnight blue hemispherical Art Deco flacon designed by Jean Helleu, and produced by Verreries Brosse.

The scent became Bourjois' most successful fragrance. By the 1950s, it was touted as "the fragrance more women wear than any other in the world," yet by 1969 it had disappeared from shelves.

The fragrance was available in parfum, eau de toilette and eau de cologne. You may also find dusting powder boxes, talc bottles, sachet bottles, soap, lipstick, bath cubes, hand lotion, perfumed bath oil, rouge, cologne sticks, compacts and face powder.

Evening in Paris was attractively packaged in gift boxes, some in the shape of stars, sailor's hat or a crescent moon. These special gift sets were often for sale around Christmas, Mother's Day and Easter.

In 1972/1973, Soir de Paris was available as Parfum: Original bottles; Purse and travel atomizers and refills; Gift sets. Also available in Eau de Toilette; Eau de Cologne; Soap; Hair pomade; Lotion.

In 1977/1978, Soir de Paris was available in the following formats:

• Perfume Presentation: Original bottles (from 4ml to 230ml); Purse atomizer (10ml)
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette; Toilet Atomizer (65ml); Eau de Cologne; Gift Sets
• Ancillary Products (Bath & Body): Soap

Beetleware Cases and Presentations:

It is possible to find the various novelties for the perfume made up of "Beetleware." You might come across the lucky horseshoe, clam shell, turtle, hotel door, grand piano, shoe, egg, grandfather clock, champagne bucket, owl or very rarely the Eiffel Tower & Marble Arch presentations. The Marble Arch presentation was created for the Coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in 1953. 

Beetleware was an early type of plastic formed from a urea formaldehyde powder developed in England by Streetly Manufacturing Co. and licensed to American Cyanamid, who introduced it into the US in 1929. These cases are erroneously touted as being made of "Bakelite,"but this is not the case. The chemical name for plastics like Beetleware is urea formaldehyde, and they differ from the phenol formaldehyde resin plastics such as Bakelite in that the raw material is an absolutely clear, colorless substance. Beetleware can be made in a variety of vivid colors such as red, white, green, blue, and these colors, unlike those of Bakelite, hold up even today without significant change to hue other than fading due to sunlight exposure. I have found the clamshells in pink, white, blue, green and red beetleware.

Lucky for us, these novelties were molded with their english registry numbers so we can pinpoint their date of manufacture:  

• Grand Piano has registry number: 824784 for 1937.
• Clamshell has registry number: 810099 corresponding to 1936.
• Turtle has registry number: 818385 corresponding to 1937.
• Owl has registry number: 825003 corresponding to 1938.
• Hotel Door has registry number: 832419 corresponding to 1939.
• Toby jug has registry number: 834875 corresponding to 1939.
• Grandfather Clock has registry number: 837401 corresponding to 1940.
• Eiffel Tower has registry number: 859996 for 1949.
• Slipper has registry number: 866164 corresponding to 1952.

During the 1940s, there were wartime presentations and all packaging bore the following statement: "This is a temporary Victory package. The contents are unchanged."

c1943 ad

c1943 ad

c1943 ad

The Fate of the Fragrance:

Bourjois was bought out by the Wertheimer family who then purchased the Chanel group. Chanel now owns Bourjois and Evening in Paris was reformulated in 1992 by Chanel's leading perfumers. The result was a sweet, smooth, creamy, slightly wood based fragrance known as "The Most Popular Fragrance in the World." The newly formulated perfume is still for sale today.

So what does the reformulation smell like? It is classified as a soft, sweet floral fragrance for women.

• Top notes: aldehydes, violet, bergamot, peach
• Heart notes: heliotrope, tilleul, clover, lilac, Turkish rose, jasmine, iris
• Base notes: cedar, vetiver, styrax , amber, musk, sandalwood and vanilla