Flamme (1932)

Flamme by Bourjois was launched in 1932. Created by Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine and Henri Robert." Relaunched in 1976.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh floral oriental perfume with a dominant geranium note. 

• Top notes: aldehydes and hyacinth
• Middle notes: Reunion geranium, ylang ylang, rose, jasmine
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, oakmoss, musk, oriental woods

Fashions of the Hour, 1932:

"Bourjois' Flamme perfume is a delightful bouquet of marvelously blended flower scents in an amusing geranium-trimmed bottle."

Drug & Cosmetic Industry, 1935:

"BOURJOIS is offering their new perfume, La Flamme, in a most attractive container. The round box is flowered, and the striking bottle rests on a base."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Flamme was discontinued for many years.

1976 Reformulation & Relaunch:

In 1976, Flamme was reformulated with modern ingredients by Jacques Polge and relaunched in new packaging. 

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a fresh aldehydic floral fragrance for women. It starts with fresh green aldehydic and citrus fruit top notes, followed by a light, green floral heart of hyacinth, jasmine, rose and orris, resting on a subdued, powdery base of oriental woods. Flamme by Bourjois is a floral, green fragrance built around a rich and expressive character. Its composition blends floral notes—hyacinth, rose, jasmine, and ylang-ylang—with Oriental woods, oakmoss, and musky nuances. Extremely present and long-lasting, it offers a persistent harmony of floral and woody accords. Its purpose is simple and confident: a perfume designed to please—pure and uncomplicated.

• Top notes: aldehydes, hyacinth, bergamot, lemon, galbanum, mandarin
• Middle notes: orris, jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, carnation, narcissus
• Base notes: Mysore sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, cedar, ambergris

Scent Profile:

Flamme by Bourjois unfolds like a vivid olfactory tableau, each note announcing itself with clarity before blending into a seamless, glowing whole. From the first breath, the fragrance opens on a shimmering flash of aldehydes—those effervescent, slightly metallic, champagne-like molecules that sparkle on the skin. Aldehydes smell abstract yet familiar: clean linen warmed by sunlight, citrus peel snapped sharply in the fingers. Here they magnify the freshness of bergamot and lemon, lending them lift and radiance. Bergamot contributes its refined bitterness—greener and more floral than lemon—while lemon brings a bright, zesty clarity that feels brisk and optimistic. Mandarin softens this brightness with gentle sweetness, juicy and rounded rather than sharp. 

Threaded through the citrus is galbanum, unmistakably green and resinous, evoking crushed stems, sap, and wet leaves; it anchors the opening in verdancy and gives Flamme its unmistakable green-aldehydic signature. Hyacinth adds a cool, aqueous floral tone—dewy, slightly earthy, like spring soil beneath blossoms—bridging the top into the heart.

As the fragrance settles, the floral heart blooms with elegance and nuance. Orris (iris root) appears first, powdery and refined, with a soft, cosmetic warmth reminiscent of violet petals, suede gloves, and fine face powder. True orris is prized for its long aging process—often several years—which deepens its complexity and gives it that luxurious, almost buttery softness. Jasmine follows, luminous and indolic, its white-flower richness suggesting warm skin and evening air; it adds sensuality without heaviness.

Rose, classic and balanced, offers a full-bodied floralcy—petaled, slightly honeyed, and faintly spicy—acting as the emotional center of the bouquet. Ylang-ylang, creamy and exotic, introduces a languid, tropical warmth, its banana-like sweetness and floral spice smoothing the sharper green edges. Carnation contributes a clove-like spiciness, adding structure and a faint peppery warmth, while narcissus brings a darker, more complex floral tone—green, hay-like, and faintly animalic—suggesting wild flowers warmed by the sun.

The base of Flamme is where the fragrance finds its lasting resonance and quiet authority. Mysore sandalwood, once considered the gold standard of sandalwood due to its creamy, milky richness and exceptional longevity, envelops the composition in smooth, velvety woodiness. Unlike sharper modern sandalwoods, Mysore is soft, warm, and faintly sweet, lending depth without dryness. 

Oakmoss introduces a shadowy, forest-floor dampness—earthy, green, and slightly bitter—providing the classic chypre-like backbone that grounds the florals and enhances their sophistication. Cedar adds a dry, pencil-wood clarity that sharpens the structure, while musk—clean yet subtly animal—acts as a skin-like whisper, diffusing the entire composition and ensuring persistence. Finally, ambergris, with its salty, mineral warmth and faint sweetness, ties everything together, enhancing longevity and giving the perfume a softly glowing, almost tactile finish.

Together, these elements create Flamme’s distinctive personality: fresh yet expressive, floral yet green, elegant yet approachable. The interplay of natural materials and carefully chosen aroma chemicals allows the aldehydes to heighten the freshness of the florals, the woods to deepen their warmth, and the musks to fuse everything seamlessly with the skin. The result is a fragrance that feels confidently present—radiant without excess, refined without restraint—a perfume that pleases simply because it is beautifully, assuredly itself.

Product Line:

In 1977/1978, Flamme was available in the following formats:

• Parfum Presentation: Original bottles (8ml to 125ml); Purse atomizer (10ml)
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette splash bottle; Eau de Toilette atomizer (65ml); Eau de Cologne

Fate of the Fragrance:

Still sold in 1978. This version is also discontinued.

Endearing by Bourjois c1946

Endearing by Bourjois: launched in 1946. Created by perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine. In 1949, it was renamed "Ramage" for export to other countries to avoid trademark violations.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leathery floral semi-oriental (chypre) fragrance for women.. Acute notes of aldehydes and jasmine, oak moss, vetiver, patchouli, amber and exotic balms. A peppery scent, rich scent and contrast, warm and sensual with amber and wood notes.

• Top notes: bergamot, lemon, petitgrain, aldehydes, mint, watercress
• Middle notes: jasmine, pepper, rose, hyacinth, orris root, lily of the valley, daffodil, wisteria
• Base notes: vanilla, leather, vetiver, labdanum, sandalwood, oakmoss, leather, ambergris, musk, patchouli

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Ramage by Bourjois: She appears laughing under her little parasol. And the flowers of her printed dress give off their scents of tender daffodils, vanilla quarantines and wisteria, in the clusters of which the twilight lingers. finely musky background emanates from her... A hint of mint and watercress refreshes everything. envelop them in mist, to taunt the tropical gravity there together."

The Endearing line included the following:

• Parfum in three sizes
• Eau de Cologne 
• Cologne Stick
• Dusting Powder 

 

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Endearing was still being sold in 1962.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Ramage was still sold in 1978.

1863 Eau de Cologne by Bourjois c1963

1863 by Bourjois: launched in 1963. Available in both Eau de Lavande and Eau de Cologne Chypree.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is a masculine fragrance based on a floral composition accented with fresh citrus and aromatic herbs. Floral compositions. Citrus notes and aromatic herbs. Freshness and vitality. For men and women, it stimulates and invigorates, relaxes, and brings a wonderful feeling of well-being. Ideal after bathing and after sports.  

Product Line:

In 1972/1973, 1863 was available in bottles containing: Eau de Cologne (80°); Eau de Lavande; Eau de Chypre.

Fate of the Fragrance:

The production was discontinued.

On the Wind by Bourjois c1956

On the Wind by Bourjois: launched in 1956. Created by perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine. This was one scent in a line of three summer colognes: On the Wind, Frosty Mist and Spice 'N Ice.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It was classified as a cool, crisp floral fragrance for women, meant to be worn during the summer months.

• Top notes: aldehydes, mint, lemon, lavender, galbanum, violet leaf
• Middle notes: ylang ylang, iris, lily, jasmine, lily of the valley, hyacinth
• Base notes: tonka bean, vanilla, sandalwood, oakmoss, vetiver, musk, orris

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued.

Glamour (1953)

Glamour by Bourjois: launched in 1953. Created by Henri Robert and Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine.

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Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as an aldehydic floral chypre fragrance for women. It starts off with a fresh green and fruity top, followed by a green floral heart, layered over a mossy, balsamic, woodsy chypre base. It evokes the warmth of the Provencal hills. Chypre type, fruity (citrus), green and woody perfume. Rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, mosses and herbs of Provence, musk, and ambergris. Spring-like and youthful, it stands out for its subtlety and elegance. With its carefree freshness, it is said to suit blondes particularly well. A “dressed-up” perfume, ideal for cocktails, premières, and small dinners in a hostess gown.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, neroli, orange, gardenia, peach
• Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, carnation, narcissus, Provencal herbs
• Base notes: ambergris, oakmoss, musk, styrax, vetiver, benzoin

The New Yorker - Volume 32, 1954:

"Bourjois has put forth a little charmer called Glamour. In this one, a fillip of orange is added to the sharp, clean tang of jasmine; at Altman, $5.50 buys three-fourths of an ounce, in an oval bottle with a gold plastic cover."

Product Line:

 In 1972/1973, Glamour was available as a perfume: in original bottles; purse and travel atomizers and refills; and gift sets. It was also available in Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne, lotion, and soap.

In 1977/1978, Glamour was available in the following:

• Perfume Presentation: Original bottles (from 5ml to 82ml); Purse spray (10ml)
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette; Eau de Toilette atomizer (65ml); Eau de Cologne; Gift sets
• Ancillary Products (Bath & Body): Soap

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still being sold in 1978.

Ramage by Bourjois c1949

Ramage by Bourjois: launched in 1949, in USA by 1951. Created by Henri Robert and Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine. Called "Endearing" for export to other countries to avoid trademark violations.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a leathery floral semi-oriental (chypre) fragrance for women. Ambery, green, and woody type perfume. A bold aldehydic note, oakmoss, vetiver, jasmine, warm and sensual with ambergris, wood notes and exotic balms. Peppery yet fresh in character. A rich, captivating fragrance with strong presence and striking contrasts, enhancing the personality of brunettes. Ideal with furs. Suitable for shopping, bridge, as well as for the office.

• Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot, lemon, petitgrain, mint, watercress
• Middle notes: jasmine, pepper, rose, hyacinth, orris root, lily of the valley, daffodil, wisteria
• Base notes: vanilla, leather, vetiver, labdanum, sandalwood, oakmoss, leather, ambergris, musk, patchouli, balsams

Combat, 1954:

"Eau Ramage by Bourjois: She appears laughing under her little parasol. And the flowers of her printed dress give off their scents of tender daffodils, vanilla quarantines and wisteria, in the clusters of which the twilight lingers. finely musky background emanates from her... A hint of mint and watercress refreshes everything. envelop them in mist, to taunt the tropical gravity there together."

Product Line:

In 1972/1973, Ramage was available as Parfum: Original bottles; Purse and travel atomizers and refills; Gift sets. Also available in Eau de Toilette; Eau de Cologne; Lotion; Soap.

In 1977/1978, Ramage was available in the following formats:

• Perfume Presentation: Original bottles (from 7ml to 206ml); Purse atomizer (10ml)
• Related Products: Eau de Toilette; Toilet Atomizer (61ml); Eau de Cologne; Gift Sets
• Ancillary Products (Bath & Body): Soap

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown. Still sold in 1978.

Beau Belle by Bourjois c1949

Beau Bell by Bourjois: launched in 1949 . It was pronounced BO-BELL, which means “very pretty."

Created by perfumer Constantin Mikhailovich “Kot” Weriguine.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is classified as a vibrant fruity chypre fragrance for women. It begins sharp and pungent with citrus blended with soapy aldehydes, and a bittersweet facet of peach. A rich floral heart touched with dry aromatic herbs and dusty spices rests on a green, mossy base.

• Top notes: lemon, bergamot, aldehydes, galbanum, Reunion geranium, neroli, peach
• Middle notes: spices (coriander, cardamom), Herbs (thyme, sage, bay), lily of the valley, jasmine, rose, orange blossom, carnation
• Base notes: myrrh, oakmoss, musk, Mysore sandalwood, labdanum, vetiver, patchouli, amber

Independent Woman, Volumes 28-29, 1949:

"BEAU BELLE, an enchanting new fruity fragrance by Bourjois is a natural for either day or nighttime wear. Carry the purse flacon luxuriously encased in a pleated drawstring."

Pacific Drug Review - Volume 61, 1949:

"Beau Belle perfume is described as having a subtle vibrant yet lingering fragrance that may be worn day or night."

Bottle:

The profile of the bottle follows the puff-back look of evening gowns The handsome boxes are covered with magenta satin and bows, with touches of gold color.


Modern Packaging, 1950:

"Schiaparelli's "leg art" French bottle for Zut perfume is now housed in green suede, satin-lined drawstring bag. Bourjois design for "Beau Belle" has been nicknamed "bottle with a bustle." "Lover's knot" formed in Lentheric "Repartee" bottle catches the light and gives added sparkle."

Glass Packer, 1951:

"UNIQUE B-SHAPED BOTTLE of Beau Belle perfume is offered by Bourjois in a clear plastic case. Tiny golden bells encircle the neck of the bottle, which rests on a shimmering Christmas bow."

Fate of the Fragrance:

Still sold in 1956, but probably discontinued before 1960.